Enamel paints?
- StoneCold Skywarp
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Enamel paints?
Are these worth using for re-painting TFs?
Bearing in mind I'm in the UK and where I live ain't exactly the best place to get 'hobby' stuff. I'm limited to either enamels or citadel/warhammer/games workshop paints. I may possibly be able to get 'proper' hobby paints, but I'm not sure if the store still exists in town.
Any advice?
Bearing in mind I'm in the UK and where I live ain't exactly the best place to get 'hobby' stuff. I'm limited to either enamels or citadel/warhammer/games workshop paints. I may possibly be able to get 'proper' hobby paints, but I'm not sure if the store still exists in town.
Any advice?
I wouldn't... enamels are messy, require primer, dry slowly, and are just generally a pain to work with when you're painting toys that are pre-assembled (unlike models that come on the runners).
Acrylics are really the thing to use for repainting Transformers. They clean up much more easily, and generally don't even require primer (the lighter colors like white and yellow do, however).
Acrylics are really the thing to use for repainting Transformers. They clean up much more easily, and generally don't even require primer (the lighter colors like white and yellow do, however).
- StoneCold Skywarp
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- RID Scourge
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- another tf fan
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I painted model cars for years and got great results from enamels. They gloss-up great and get harder as the years go by, perfect for static models.
That being said, they won't work on joints. they will peel and crack anywhere your toy transforms. As Clay pointed out they require mineral spirits to dilute with and produce vapors known to be harmful to the respiratory system.
Acrylics, on the other hand, are water soluble and have a measure of elasticity that will allow the paint to stretch around ball joints and such.
That being said, they won't work on joints. they will peel and crack anywhere your toy transforms. As Clay pointed out they require mineral spirits to dilute with and produce vapors known to be harmful to the respiratory system.
Acrylics, on the other hand, are water soluble and have a measure of elasticity that will allow the paint to stretch around ball joints and such.
Come on and wind me up.
Games Workshop actually do high quality acrylic -- overpriced for what it is, like everything they sell, but it's good stuff.
Primer / spraying stuff with a light coat of varnish after (matte usually being best for display, but it wear off with handling) will give a harder paint job whichever type of paint you're using. It's important to use only a very light coat of primer, though, to avoid bunging up detail. Spray usually works best, rather than splashing it around with a brush.
For large areas of black, it's probably worth disassembling and using a spray for a smooth finish.
Primer / spraying stuff with a light coat of varnish after (matte usually being best for display, but it wear off with handling) will give a harder paint job whichever type of paint you're using. It's important to use only a very light coat of primer, though, to avoid bunging up detail. Spray usually works best, rather than splashing it around with a brush.
For large areas of black, it's probably worth disassembling and using a spray for a smooth finish.
- RID Scourge
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I've been meaning to pick up some paints to paint a few custom GI Joes that I made.
Prolly should share my limited knowledge. For one custom, I've used testor's accryllic, and I sprayed a topcoat on a figure, but there's definitely wear around the joints that I didn't disassemble (the arms. I've learned a technique that can be used to get the pis out, since then, but I haven't implemented it yet), and there are two scratches in areas unseen (unless I move it. Don't plan on doing that too much). I also neglected to lightly sand the parts, which usually makes the paints stay on better, since it has a rough surface to grip. I know that people on the joe boards have given high acclaim to both the citadel paints as well as testor's model masters (in fact, they say that you don't even need to put a finish on with the model masters, so I'm probably going to order some of those eventually). I've got something like 6-10 joes (though they're mostly cobras, now that I think of it), waiting to be painted.
Prolly should share my limited knowledge. For one custom, I've used testor's accryllic, and I sprayed a topcoat on a figure, but there's definitely wear around the joints that I didn't disassemble (the arms. I've learned a technique that can be used to get the pis out, since then, but I haven't implemented it yet), and there are two scratches in areas unseen (unless I move it. Don't plan on doing that too much). I also neglected to lightly sand the parts, which usually makes the paints stay on better, since it has a rough surface to grip. I know that people on the joe boards have given high acclaim to both the citadel paints as well as testor's model masters (in fact, they say that you don't even need to put a finish on with the model masters, so I'm probably going to order some of those eventually). I've got something like 6-10 joes (though they're mostly cobras, now that I think of it), waiting to be painted.
- Knightdramon
- Protoform
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I used enamel paint in the past for model kits, but switched over to markers. Got a whole lot from hlj and they all work great. Painted details on a few transformers [TM 2 Megs became show accurate] and the colours you want are very easy to work with.
Few stuff in the UK to trade/sell. Measly sales thread.
I always used acrylic for painting miniatures (plastic and metal, so this would apply to TFs too) because it was water based, making it very easy to clean the brushes. It also felt thinner to me than enamel. It's definitely not as durable though, and you'd want to apply some sort of finish, which could be tricky depending on what you're painting.
- StoneCold Skywarp
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